Showing posts with label gadgets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gadgets. Show all posts

Sunday, April 26, 2009

AeroGarden, First Planting


[ 03.08.09 ] Planting

I recently picked up an AeroGarden Elite when it was on sale at Costco. I love growing things and have about 20 plants in my home started from seeds or cuttings and many more that I've given away. When I first heard about the AeroGarden, I thought it would be cool to play with, but it was way too expensive for what it does. So, when it was on sale last week, my curiosity took over my wallet.


The Elite has 6 pods and the Costco version came with 2 bulb kits (4 bulbs) and 2 herb seed kits (12 pods) for $89. The kits themselves run about $20 each, so I justified it by thinking I got the unit for $10. ^^;; Obviously, the bulbs and seed kits are still way too expensive, considering you can get a gram of herb seeds for under $1, and the bulbs are just 26W daylight spectrum CFLs with a proprietary connector.

It does look like it may be possible to modify the hood to take standard bulbs, though you'd want the pin kind and not the edison kind. I'll look into that after I've used up the kits it came with as well as how to make my own pods.

The unit is essentially a water bowl with a small air pump (sounds like an aquarium pump) aerating the water with nutrients, which soak up into the pods like a self watering planter. The roots then grow down into the water, while the hood is height adjustable to get the optimum light as the plant grows. The little clear dome caps act like mini greenhouses while the seedlings establish roots. Since I have this bright light on anyway, I brought over some plants that aren't getting enough light in the winter and see how good the light is.

There is a low-pitch hum from the pump that could get annoying if you are always in the same room, but I suspect it's not any worse than an aquarium that uses an air pump. It is much louder than my aquarium that uses a Whisper bio-filter though.

As for the herb kit, 4 of the seeds I've grown before using standard planters, so it will be interesting to compare the results. I'll update with weekly photos so we can watch them grow. ^^


[ 03.15.09 ] Week 1

Amazingly, just one day after planting the basil had a tiny sprout, which was followed by thyme and oregano on day 2. Mint sprouted on day 5 and chives on day 6. The dill hasn't sprouted yet, but it's labeled at 7-14 days for germination, which is still short when compared to my packet of dill seeds listed at 21-24 days. One week and we have 5 of the 6 pods with tiny sprouts. They're so cute.


I had a problem with the mint pod, the spongy material inside didn't seem to expand like the others and didn't rise to the surface. Kaki-mei said she was having the same problem with her pods and suggested lifting it manually. I took a toothpick and gently prodded it up and it worked. It actually had expanded, but since the pod is tapered, it jammed itself into the bottom of the pod and couldn't rise.


The basil which has the fastest germination time of the pods is listed at 3-7 days, but only took 1 day for the first seed to show growth. After the minimum 3 days, it had these nice sprouts.

I also did some research on the hum noise and it looks like the 6 pod units have an "advanced grow" system which uses a noisier air pump/stone to aerate the water instead of an impeller to move the water. An impeller is what a biofilter uses and aerates by moving water in a waterfall fashion. They are nearly silent, but since it moves water, it requires more maintenance over time. It's also why the 7-pod seed kits are not compatible with the 6-pod units, since the pods get water from the impeller, they are shorter and don't reach the water bowl like the 6-pod kits do.


[ 03.22.09 ] Week 2

Two LEDs on the base unit lit up today, one to add nutrient tablets to the bowl and the other to add more water. There aren't any sensors, so these are just on a timer, which I obeyed and hit the reset button to restart the timers. The seed kit came with 8 packets of nutrient tablets, which is about 4 months at a 2 week cycle. Anyway, all of the pods have sprouted and I removed the domes on 4 of the pods.


The chives, which were the last to sprout, grew very fast and bumped into the dome, so I had to remove it. However, only two of the seeds had sprouted, and I don't know if more will sprout later with the dome off. The other pods all have many seeds growing and you can actually see the roots coming out of the sponges through the water refill flap.

I'm a little concerned about the growing surface that the pods sit on, it's kind of thin and I can tell it is already warping, either from the heat of the lamps or the weight of the pods. The corners already won't sit flush to the bowl like it did 2 weeks ago. Kaki told me a few days ago that all three of her Aerogarden pumps broke at almost the same time after a year. So much for quality. :(


[ 03.29.09 ] Week 3

All of these little guys are doing well after 3 weeks. The chives still only have two seeds that sprouted, though they each sent up another branch. At this rate, it doesn't seem like there will be enough chives to harvest. The tending guide shows about 8 seeds sprouting in the sample picture, but I got just 2.


The tending guide also suggests the plants start being pruned at weeks 3-5. So far, none of them seem large enough to be pruned yet. The largest, basil, is still just shy of 3" tall - probably another inch and it can be pruned. I haven't had to raise the lamp yet, so it is still on the lowest position.


[ 04.05.09 ] Week 4

Another 2 week cycle and the base was blinking for more tablets and water today. I also raised the lamp one notch as the basil is growing very fast, even after pruning the growth above the 3rd branches.


Nothing was happening with the chives pod, so I popped it out to check inside and to my horror the un-germinated seeds had a film of grey/white mold on them. I took my tweezers and pulled them all out and then rinsed the pod under running water. The other pods all looked ok, but the chives pod will need daily attention (although the two plants look healthy). I will toss the pod if any mold comes back, though I am considering just tossing it now and taping over the empty hole. Totally was not expecting that.


[ 04.13.09 ] Week 5

Late posting due to income taxes being due this week. Here's the growth for the last week:


I've started trimming all the pods and used the first trimmings in an omelette. Even though the trimmings were few, it added a lot of fresh flavor. I think the basil is growing a bit too fast - if I raise the hood, I'm concerned the lamps may be too high for the other pods. I'm going to just start removing the larger leaves of the basil, since it is shading the lower leaves and pods, in an attempt to even out the plant heights before raising the lamp another notch.

Also, no hint of any new mold in the chives pod, and the two chives each grew another shoot. If it continues to grow a shoot a week, it might not be too bad.


[ 04.26.09 ] Week 6 & 7

Here's the week 6 photo which I forgot to post - the plants were trimmed and the lamp raised another notch:


Mid-week, some of the plants looked like they were starting to wilt and looking in the tank, the water level was very low. The plants were only getting water from the longer roots, so I refilled the tank. 3 days later, it needed another 4 cups of water, so the plants are absorbing enough water that the 2 week timer simply isn't sufficient any more. At this stage, I need to add water at least weekly. Here's the week 7 photo:


The plants were big enough that the lamp was raised another notch. Except for the chives, there's enough growth to harvest each weekend, I think even more often, but I only get to cook on the weekends. I will call the chives a failure, since only two of them sprouted, there wasn't enough growth to cover the hole on the pod. This let light leak through allowing algae to grow. I've covered the hole with a small bit of painters tape to block out the excess light.

What's nice about this set of herbs is that most of it goes well together, so if you're not using a recipe and just want to add some flavor, pinch a twig off two or three plants and you're all set. Here's what I made with some trimmings this weekend - a seared shrimp with garlic sauce over pasta, topped with toasted parmesan and bread crumbs:


I'm not a good cook, so it's not the prettiest thing, but it's delicious and the fresh herbs are very flavorful. I think the appeal with something like this is you don't have to plan ahead on what to buy. Whatever I'm making, I find myself thinking if anything will go well with it and just pinch it off. ^^;;

Anyway, apart from the chives, this is what you could expect from the herb seed kit. In under 2 months, the plants are mature and producing plenty of fresh herbs to use. This will be the last update until I run out of nutrient tablets. I'll update with how long the plants survive without the tablets.

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Monday, February 23, 2009

Color calibration

I took Stan's color calibrator for a spin this weekend to see how it works. I've been using the display optimization wizard in the Nvidia control panel along with the Lagom LCD tests to adjust my displays. But, while they looked fine to me, I never really knew if the colors were correct or not. Here was the chance to find out.


The calibration software starts off working like normal calibration tests - set the contrast, set the brightness, set the color temp, but the nice thing here is you get to actually test it. The i1 calibrator lets you adjust the monitors white balance compared to a known color temperature. You adjust the monitors RGB settings through its OSD and the i1 measures the result and moves RGB sliders around in a dialog box. Changing one value of R, G or B can cause multiple sliders to move in opposite directions, so it's like a mini game to get all the sliders centered in the middle. Once you do, you have the correct color of white.


Once contrast, brightness and color temp are correct, it runs through a long sequence of color squares measuring and creating a gamma curve for each color. When it's done the gamma curves are written to an ICC profile which is then set as the default for the desktop and calibration is complete. You can then switch between the before and after to compare the new calibration to the previous setting.


This is the before and after, taken with a camera so you can see what the monitor is actually putting out. The left half is the before calibration colors and the right half is the after calibration colors. Can you tell the difference?

It's very subtle, and the most noticeable change is the two inner grey squares, which have a slight tint before calibration and are neutral grey after calibration. The gamma curves are fairly linear with the widest correction occurring in the mid tones.

Now how does this work for a TV? I ran it on my HTPC attached to the Samsung A550. The Samsung has settings for custom color space, but the generated ICC profile is only valid on the computer input. However, the temperature settings can be applied to all inputs, so the TV (ota/cable/sat/etc) can be adjusted for the color of white, which I think is the most important part anyway. Given the before and after colors, it seems any decent gamma optimizer, like the Lagom tests or those built-in to your display driver, should do a good enough job for non-professional use.

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Saturday, November 29, 2008

LCD TVs

I recently purchased two 1080p LCD TVs, one to replace my 10 year old RPTV and another to use as a den TV and game/PC monitor. The living room TV is a Samsung LN46A550 and the den TV is a Sharp 32D64U. I figured the Sharp would make a good PC monitor and a lot of reviews I read said it would do 1080p over VGA, which I could hook up to the Xbox360, leaving plenty of inputs for other things. That didn't quite turn out to be the case.

I figured I've been using LCDs as PC monitors for ages now and it's about time for TV tech to finally catch up. But there are some pretty big differences, so I thought I'd do a quick comparison. Both TVs are hooked up to the same PC at the same time over dvi->hdmi, so they have the same signal and both calibrated with Lagom LCD test images. This attempts to produce a uniform gradient across RGB levels, but does not attempt to calibrate color temp - both sets are set to standard "neutral" temp. I took a quick photo of some large text to compare:


On the left is the Sharp D64U and on the right is the Samsung A550. The bright spots are dust on the screen reflecting the flash and both panels appear defect free. The first thing to note is that both of these TVs separate a pixel into upper and lower halves, but there is a clear difference in how these subpixels are arranged (and even used).

There seems to be this consensus in reviews that the Samsung has better picture quality than the Sharp and side-by-side it's easy to notice a "softness" in the Sharp picture immediately (despite that the Sharp is actually smaller and should look better). The closeup of an anti-aliased '3' shows some interesting differences in the subpixel structure. The Samsung always renders both halves of subpixels at the same level which always creates a square pixel, but the Sharp does not. The Sharp does this zig-zag of RGB over both halves for dark pixels and alternates only blue on bright pixels. I haven't found any settings that control this to turn it on or off, but pixels rendered this way are always fuzzy. For scaled SD content, this actually benefits the Sharp as some of the compression noise is fuzzed away, where the same noise is clearly visible on the Samsung. However, I suspect this is also why high definition pictures on the Sharp, while they look good at a distance, still can't compare in quality.

This does present a problem in using it as a PC display, since a dot-by-dot image is always high definition, the image is always fuzzy. Bringing up a webpage, the text on the Samsung is crisp and clear like on a computer monitor, but on the Sharp, it's a barely legible (headache inducing) mess. To add insult to injury, Sharp removed the 1080p support over VGA in the 2008 S firmware models. Now, why would anyone remove support for the native resolution, essentially limiting it to 720p as the only VGA widescreen resolution?

Ok, two strikes for the Sharp, but perhaps it's still usable as a TV? I tried watching DVDs over 480p component and within an hour ran into what is known as the component blinking issue. The display intermittently blacks out for about 2 seconds and then shows the component input info in the upper right as it reacquires the signal. Sometimes this happens rapidly (5-10 times back-to-back) and sometimes about once an hour. Reading the D64U owners threads on avsforums suggests the problem is fairly common and some owners have had success rolling back to an older firmware resolve it. But like others, rolling back the firmware for me has only reduced the frequency that it occurs.

Unfortunately, the shipping and restocking fees would have been almost 1/3 of what I paid. Since OTA and HDMI do work, I'll be using it as an unplanned bedroom TV instead.

On the other hand, the Samsung has met my expectations for a living room TV replacement (and Rannie can no longer say my TV is small!). While calibrating with the Lagom images, it managed to render all of the black level and white saturation tests, while still maintaining a very deep black - something even my PC monitors have a hard time doing.

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Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Drive Failures

It's about that time where the drives in my main PC have started developing problems (drives over 6 years old running 24/7) and I lost a bunch of data about a month ago. Shopping for new drives, the large 1TBs have gotten pretty cheap, but thinking about losing 1TB of data on a drive failure is kind of scary. Since they will eventually fail, I decided to spend some time looking at Drobos and other RAID solutions for home use.

They all have their pros and cons (and costs), so I went and gave Windows Home Server with PP1 a try. I took the old gaming PC that I had put Ubuntu and XBMC on and converted it to a WHS and started experimenting with what it can do. I was initially looking for just a decent redundancy solution, but this ended up being so much more fexible and extensible with plug-in SDK, that I've been writing my own to support features I want.

To start with, it's not really RAID, but instead does file-level mirroring on any folders I configure and will balance "shadow copies" of files onto seperate drives. This means I get RAID-1-like functionality, but I can add any random drive to extend the storage pool without having to match capacities or losing any usable space. Since I can select what folders to mirror, the result is a file server that acts like a RAID for important files I can't lose, but acts like a normal NAS for everything else to make better use of space.

This is a main distinction as other RAID solutions protect everything or nothing. WHS allows me to choose either of those extremes, or some place in between. Another distinction is since it's file-level mirroring, a failed drive will contain all the data for any given file (unlike RAID striping). So even if the files on it were un-mirrored, I have all of my normal data recovery options to extract those files, like what I recently went through. The same goes for multi-drive failures - instead of potentially losing an entire array, each drive still has normal recovery options making it (slightly) less catastrophic.

But it's the other features that really makes this into more than a disk storage solution. I get remote access to the file server and Windows PCs on my network with a homeserver.com domain, including a free SSL certificate (nice!). I have it configured as a print server as well as hosting several virtual machines. All the stuff on my main PC is now running in a VM on the WHS, as well as my RedHat server, and the hardware consolidated. I used to remote access through SSH tunnels, but this is so much easier with no ports to mess with.

For Windows PCs on my network, it automates nightly backups to "set it and forget it". It does some nice tricks to save storage space by only storing the same files once and ignoring temp/swap files. It also saves all the necessary drivers to a restore folder, which are used if a full system restore is needed. This is as simple as booting a CD, inserting a flash drive containing the driver folder, and selecting the backup date to recover. To make sure it works, I tested this on my laptop restoring a full backup to an empty drive and had it back running in under 20 minutes with everything it had before.

It's disappointing though, that the automated backup doesn't work with my PowerBook or RedHat server. Those can still access the file server and can be manually backed up to it with other backup solutions (but that really means never). Overall, I'm very happy with how things are set up now and it's been running very smoothly. I've got 2 extra PCs that I need figure out what to do with... :) But now that I'm done fiddling with this, I should have more time for kit building which I haven't touched in a month!

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Saturday, April 12, 2008

Tenori-On

Another hobby of mine is music and here's an interesting new product from Yamaha Japan that will be available soon in the US: Tenori-On.


Being billed as a composition and performance device, it is a 256 voice synthesizer with a 16x16 array of LED buttons used to compose and alter a live performance. A variety of layers and modes change the LED functions, from composing notes like a piano scroll to painting musical textures by sweeping a finger across the buttons. The inventor, Toshio Iwai, also developed the music game Electroplankton for the Nintendo DS.


US west coast debut event in San Francisco on the 18th of April. Want? I do!

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